Making My Own Wine In Marche

I have always had mixed feelings about port towns, they don’t always have a great reputation so I was interested to go and have a look for myself when an Italian friend, Marco, kept insisting that Ancona (which is in the region called Marche) is a beautiful old harbour and deserves more visitors.

I took a budget flight and on arrival at the airport I was greeted with a cold beer and a Parma ham sandwich and things were off to a good start,

it got even better when we stopped at a beautiful local restaurant on the way to our accommodation. We were advised by our host to try pasta made with local mussels, washed down with a carafe of fresh local Verdicchio wine. The recommendation didn’t disappoint, the Adriatic’s shallow waters produce famous seafood and the pasta was perfectly complimented by the well-balanced wine which had hints of lemon and almond, Verdicchio is a Marche speciality.

We were staying at a picturesque vineyard and our host was a friendly chap called Matteo – he was happy to show us around his vineyard explaining which grapes he was growing (as well as wheat and honey), his plans for the future, some of the problems he encounters and what makes a great vintage.

Next it was our chance to make our own wine. A group of Marco’s friends joined us and accompanied by a wine expert we started by trying various combinations of vintages to see what we wanted to make. We agreed on a combination that we all liked and then got to know each other as well as how wine is made while blending the wine, inserting corks, adding foil, designing and adding labels, we called the wine my Oinos (Oinos being the ancient Greek work for wine, which reminds of the Greek roots of the town). This amazing day ended with us drinking our own wine and having a B-B-Q together, it was a great bonding experience.

Over the next few days I visited some local wineries where we were warmly greeted and encouraged to try the produce. The local red is called ‘Rosso Conero’, like many Italian wines it is based on the Montepulciano grape (it must be at least 85% Montepulciano), I hadn’t tried it before but soon realised that it is excellent, complex, full bodied wine – it doesn’t have the name of a wine like Chianti but because it’s not mass produced the quality is high. This was a good chance to buy some more wine to ship back (I was already taking home a case of the wine that I had made).

I also had the chance to visit the town which is full of glorious historic buildings as well as gelateria’s selling the best ice-cream in the world and small trattorias (traditional restaurants)
serving mainly delicious pizza, pasta and seafood. We also visited some beautiful beaches and I had the opportunity to see the stunning countryside full of vineyards and olive groves, we had a walk up Mount Conero and on the last night we ate fresh fried fish at a festival of the sea hosted by local fishermen.

Marco was right! Ancona has a lot to offer and I will be back there soon to make some more wine, lay on the beach and eat great food!

I hope you enjoy the short video below that captured the experience of making my own wine in Marche.

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